There are those amongst us who will be fortunate enough, in the coming weeks, to receive a gift card for their favorite outdoor store. I doubt that I'll be among them. Hey, I suppose I just ain't loved enough. To those fortunate few, a few words of advice from one who has heard quite a few conversations (not to mention tall tales) over the years while standing in a fishing department at one of the said retailers...that is, don't grab and go.

You see, most manufacturers, even those purported to have achieved lofty respect concerning the level of quality they offer with their wares still hire dunderheads in the marketing department, most especially when it comes to the 'combos' that are offered to those unwilling to take the time to consider what they are truly purchasing.

Deep breath.

In all my years I have yet to see a rod mated to a reel that deserved each other. They are always over-engineered with the bobber guy in mind who must hoist a VW from the bottom of a farm pond. So, where to begin? Let's start with what you're trying to achieve. What are you going to be fishing for? After you've answered that simple question, walk straight to the reel department. Hang on! We'll get to the rods in a bit.

There are several factors that need to be considered when determining which is the 'best' reel for any given job. A short list would include; price, quality, weight classification, feel and believe it or not, word of mouth. That's right: what have you 'heard' concerning the company that wants to take that gift card out of your pocket? Not all reel manufacturers are created equal but, needless to say, a twenty dollar reel today is far and above a better value than a fifty dollar reel twenty years ago. The technology is that great!

Would I spend twenty dollars for a reel? Yes, three times over! You see, I fish almost every day and the reels I choose are an investment in that fact. If you won't fish quite that often, then by all means, go cheaper if you like. But, for me, I won't even glance at a reel if it's priced under fifty...or, over one hundred, for that matter. Like any tool, I only wanna buy one, and never again. Quick, Quality, Price. The old adage, pick two of the three.

There's a myriad of reels for spinning outfits, since you asked, that fall within that price range. Let's be realistic. The other reels encompass roughly 25% of our total sales where I punch a clock, so we'll focus on the spinning here. We'll discuss baitcasters at another date and time. Though some of the rules I list here will still apply regardless.

You cannot buy a 'bad' reel in that price range short of defects that occur at every assembly line in every factory from here to Timbuktu. It's a role of the dice when you buy anything, right? So, let's say you've picked several off the wall, hefted them, turned the handle a few times and decided, "That's the one". Since I'm not being paid to write this, and no one is buying my lunch, and I fear a lawsuit, I will not mention models, let alone makers of reels during our conversation. Whatever you do, do NOT open the bail and turn the handle in order to 'feel' how well it closes, or snaps the bail home. This is, next to backing over it with your truck, the worst thing you can do to a spinning reel. I won't deal in the physics and number of moving parts involved but, it's a sure way to shorten the life of the reel...nuff said?

Now, look at the reel's spool. Almost every reel worth its salt will tell you what line it is designed to hold. My Uncle Bob taught me early on, "Look for the middle number and never go past that when you buy line." That is the optimum line the reel was designed to hold. So, consequently, If I'm replacing an ultralight reel the one I'm looking at better say, "2-4-6" on the spool and then, as an after-thought, the quantity of line (in some instances) that the spool will hold. Medium light will read, "4-6-8" medium, "6-8-10" and so on. At this point some are scoffing. So, I'll ask, "Average weight of every fish you've ever caught?" I once caught a forty pound flathead on 4lb. Triline XL. A 44lb. 4oz. trout was caught in Arkansas several years back, a world record at the time, on the same line. If memory serves me, the guy was over seventy!

Techonology is a given at this price range. I never consider a reel on its heft or, the number of bearings it states to have. I'd rather have four fantastic bearings than eleven bad ones. It's in the 'feel' we discussed earlier. Spin the handle: how hydraulic does it feel? We're talking grease on glass here. If you sense a raspiness or gritty grinding sensation while spinning the handle then, by all means, move on to the next model, or choose the lesser of all the evils. Warranted, some reels may have been built on Monday, but if the grease is missing on the worm gears I'll pass and get one smoother and worry about greasing it myself the following spring. I can't stress this enough.

Now that you've picked the reel, go home. Just kidding...or maybe not. I would rather take two paydays to get my rod to match the reel than run the risk of cheapening the combination I'm attempting to build. Don't skimp. Remember that this is an investment that you do NOT want to need to replace anytime soon. Onward and upward: concerning the rod...same thing applies here. Gimickry and fishing show commercials are all well and good, but, what have you personally heard concerning the product? I would rather buy a rod from a single customer's recommendation than having witnessed it's use on TV.

And, we're back in that same price range again. IM-8 is my personal choice in this matter. You could go more and you could choose less, but bang for the buck, it's hard to beat an IM-8 under a hundred dollars. Do the rods in the two, or three hundred dollar range have their merits? Couldn't tell it by me. Again, we're talking bang for the buck here. And, once again, we're back to 'feel'. Hold it, snap it in your hand, watch the tip and picture your lures of choice. Want to upset the salesman? Tap the tip on the floor.

Heft the rod; attach the reel you're considering and if the balance is right you should be able to place your finger halfway up the cork knob above the reel and balance the rod there. If you must move your finger forward of that point, the rod is 'rod heavy'. If on the other hand, you must move your finger back towards the reel, the rod is 'reel heavy'. This is not a good or bad thing. The reel is to the rod, what it is...period. Or, is it, the rod is to the reel? Never mind.

Line will affect the weight balance a bit but not enough to concern us here. Now, look at the shaft. We're looking for something along these lines...(pardon the pun). In the case of a walleye rod for instance, "Medium Light 4-10 lbs." or, something similar. What this tells us is first, the reel you've chosen should say, "4,6,8, or 6,8,10" on the spool. Second, and most important, the rod mentioned was designed to withstand no more than ten pounds of dead weight hanging from it's tip! So, if you load up the rod with twenty pound super braid and set the drag close to its tensil strength, kiss your rod goodbye and don't come crying to me! We see them, here in the store, every day in the summer. Go ahead, test me.

Sure, there is the occasional defect in the rod that would cause it to snap in half...right. Once in a while, there will be a scratch on the rod that can weaken it's backbone...right. Or, the user set the drag at "crack" and got what he was hoping for. Most likely.

This is the balancing act. Reel to line to rod to drag setting. It's as simple as that...trust me. I got nothing to gain in the truth or the lie...do I? I hope you make some sound decisions in this off-season concerning the disposition of your gift card. And, I pray that you've taken some of this advise to heart and receive years of service from your equipment and smile over your investment and the inherent catches associated with your efforts. Now, rain or shine, go get that State Record!